Tuesday, August 7, 2012

Traveling Suit #1002 Progress Report

Making the Traveling Suit #1002...My Journey.... 

 So I started with a mistake, printing the pattern without selecting "none".  So I was missing 3/4 inch between each row and had to add it in with some painters tape. Hence, the lovely blue stripes on my patterns.   My fabric was 58 inches wide, so I only used 3 1/3 yards of fabric to cut out the suit.

The fabric is a medium weight navy blue wool.  It has a soft hand.  I cut out the satin lining pieces with the same pattern pieces as the jacket except for the front, which was cut out of wool since I wanted the wool to show when the lapel folded back.



The pattern was much too big for me.  I thought it would be roomy but with the added ease, it just would not work.  I am a bust size 34.  I ended up pinning it to the appropriate fit on my dress form, marked the new seams with chalk, transferred them to both sides keeping the adjustments symmetrical.  The fit was perfect after the adjustments.  I also had to take in the back seams of the skirt to smooth out the hip shape.  I did sew a 5/8 inch seam allowance on the adjusted pattern EXCEPT on the sleeve, which I had read was a little tight on someone else's blog.  So I left the sleeve pattern and arm hole as it was.  Reflecting back, I would have increased the arm hole.  It feels a tad tight.



The cuffs were cut out according to the pattern.  They were a little wider than the sleeve though.  I eased it to fit, which made the cuffs fold back onto the sleeve nicely.  I finished the inside of the cuff with grosgrain ribbon.  Even though it doesn't show, I know it looks nice on the inside.   :)

I made a facing for the waist of the skirt from excess fabric cut off the hem.  The skirt was way too long for me.  I traced the waist of the skirt, used that as the pattern for the facing.  The skirt had a strange closure (in my opinion), so I finished the left edge with a piece of grosgrain ribbon folded back 1 inch.  I then top stitched 1 inch from the folded edge, down 8 inches of the left skirt.  This would be the top overlap where I would sew skirt hooks.  

I sewed another piece of grosgrain to the right side where the other half of the dress hooks would be attached.

Then I lined them up and sewed the skirt together, 1 inch from the edge as described in the pattern.  The overlap popped up but I knew that the buttons would be sewn at the lower part and hold the edge down flat.

 I added a couple of buttons at the hip, because they looked stylish there. 



This is a snap shot of the lining and an inner button to hold the inner lapel in place when the coat is buttoned up.  I loved the long length of the jacket, so I ended up only serging the edges and then sewing grosgrain ribbon to the edge.  Then I turned it up and hand sewed the ribbon to the lining.
I placed the buttons after trying on the jacket.  The top button went just under the breast and then I spaced them 1 1/2 inches apart for the set of 3.  There is 3 inches between the sets of 3.  This left room for a belt.  I didn't continue the buttons up the entire lapel, because I wanted to wear the jacket to work and preferred the "clean" look of the lapel without buttons.  

I loved this project.  I will make the jacket again with a more fitted sleeve cap and different button arrangement because the jacket fit is so nice.  I especially love the sleeve shape and the cuffs.  The skirt looks great with a tank top or light blouse, giving it a vintage and modern style that will be perfect  for work.

1912 Suit for the Titanic Project



Women's Traveling Suit #1002 

The suit is done and turned out beautifully.  I used a medium weight navy blue wool.  The jacket is lined in navy blue satin. The coat and skirt have 20 semi-sphere black buttons.   




I will add photos of the work in progress on a different post.  Below is the suit without the belt and the lapel folded down.  I think it is very nice and wearable.                            
A nice suit for to wear to work.